Culinary Controversy

We are into giving nationalities to everything now. Previously it was “Malaysianisation” by giving Mykads and red ICs to illegal immigrants, and then it was “Malaysianising” songs (I still think “Rasa Sayang” is Portugese). The latest fad is giving Malaysian citizenship to certain types of dishes, those we claim to have originated from Malaysia.

According to our “learned” Tourism Minister Ng Yen Yen M.D., laksa, nasi lemak, Hainanese chicken rice, chilli crab and bak kut teh are all Malaysian dishes. She went on further to say “We cannot continue to let other countries hijack our food”. Dr Ng said that her ministry was identifying the popular dishes, which are also available in neighbouring countries, and would declare them as Malaysian in the next three months. But she did not say how her ministry would label the dishes as Malaysian.

How does one give a “nationality” to certain dishes? Satay for example, is a Malay name for barbequing meat on skewers, the form of cooking practised all over the world. Kebabs are grilled meat on skewers and so are the Korean Bulgogi and the Vietnamese Nem Nuong. The only difference is in the marination. As for Pasta, there isn’t a conclusive agreement on its origins, we may know it as an Italian cuisine but the Greeks and Arabs also have claims to it, backed by historical research and evidence.

Malaysia is made of various cultures. We have traces of Javanese, Sumateran, Chinese, Indian, Arabic, Portugese, Siamese and to a certain extent English cultures in our society and therefore it is not a surprise that our food is heavily influenced by these various traditions. Being a mixture of many cultures, it is difficult to accord food a nationality, so let’s not spoil our appetite by fussing over it. Jom makan!

Btw, If Hainanese chicken rice is Malaysian, why is it called Hainanese?