Travelogue #9 - Melaka

I haven’t been to Melaka for quite a while. I was there last week and the first thing I noticed was Ali Rustam’s picture plastered on each and every billboard, at every street corner and in front of every historical landmark. Let’s just say there is one Ali Rustam every 200 yards. Ali however has done quite a good job making Melaka a nice city. I was quite impressed with what I saw, apart from his picture that is. The riverside is nice; Jonker Street is full of life, both during the day and at night; they have nice attractions like the tower thingy; and that ship in front of the Stadhuys is quite impressive.

I found something interesting a few days ago; one should not take everything written on the World Wide Web as gospel but I found this new “info-rumour” to be quite intriguing; apparently someone is claiming that Melaka is not as great as it is made out to be and Muar is the real Melaka of the 15th century. This author claims that there is no proof that Melaka was the famous, important trading port our history books have been telling us all this while. He/she claims that The Royal Sampan Armada (the sampan armada??) was never found, nor was there any grave of any Sultan during the classical Malacca Period and since all Ming Emperor's names began with "Tzu" (pronounced Chu), the fairy tale of Hang Li Poh being a Ming Princess doesn't hold water. The writer concluded that Melaka was actually in Muar and the Melaka we know was just a small fishing village.

Interesting indeed.

I’m no historian but despite his/her argument having valid-ish points, I remain unconvinced. I read a few pages from chapter three written by Prof Wang Gungwu from the book “Admiral Zheng He and Southeast Asia” and it is filled with proof of the existence of Melakan sultanate and empire. Wang Gungwu is a learned professor; he cannot be making all those things up, can he?

Tome Pires, the Portuguese royal doctor stayed in Melaka for a few years after the Portuguese conquest. He wrote a book, “Suma Oriental” which was apparently well researched. I wasn’t there when he wrote it so I can’t vouch for it’s authenticity but I’m sure the good doctor did not make up the stories. Even if he did, it won’t be throughout the book and he would have been found out.

R. O. Winstedt wrote a paper titled “The Malay Founder of Medieval Malacca” which talks about the origins of Parameswara. Winstedt is a reputable expert in Malayan/Malay studies and was fundamental in preserving several works of Malay literature including “The Sejarah Melayu”. So, if he says there was a Malacca sultanate, I’ll believe him.

The person claiming Melaka is a fraud may have his/her own reasons and/or motives but pasting it on the web will not have any serious impact or carry any weight. The proper way would be via the academic route, through proper research and peer reviewed thesis.

I want to believe in Melaka's glorious past because that was one of the greatest era in Malay history. Malaysia is a very young country with very little history, no doubt we have the Lembah Bujang, Langkasuka and what not but Melaka is the most well "documented" of our past. It will break a lot of hearts (especially Ali Rustam's) if the allegation was found to be true.

Melaka has a glorious past and unless there is concrete and proper proof that it wasn't, I shall continue to believe in Mansur Syah, Hang Tuah, Tun Perak etc.