Friday, January 16, 2009

Travelogue #02 - Journey through the Cotswolds


Travel websites, journals and books often refer to the Cotswolds as the heart of England, well known for its gentle hillsides; quaint, sleepy little towns and villages and for being so typically English. I’m not so sure about the last part cos’ I’m not sure what typically English entails.

The best way to explore the Cotswolds is by car. This way, one can explore the area, stop when you see something interesting and spend as much time as you want at any particular place guided by a map (or road signs) and a reputable tourist guidebook.

A 3 day summer journey through the Cotswolds could bring one to Bath, Painswick, Cirencester, Bibury and Bourton-on-the-Water.

Not doubt the historical city Bath has a lot of worthwhile tourist attractions but in order to maximise coverage of the Cotswolds in 3 days, one has to choose only the main attraction – the Roman Baths. The engineering of the remarkable baths at Minerva's temple is evidence of Roman Britain’s technological feat. The complex was completed in the 4th century AD and had no fewer than five healing hot baths. An elaborate heating system serviced a series of hot sweat rooms; swimming pools and cold rooms. At the centre, in its own hall is the Great Bath. You can even sample the spring water at the Museum restaurant.

The Missus found a hidden attraction somewhere off the B4066 in the middle of nowhere, - Owlpen Manor, a Tudor manor house described by Prince Charles as the epitome of the English village but I somehow do not get what he’s getting at. It is now the residence of the Mander family. The house dates from the mid 15th century and was restored in 1926 after nearly 100 years of neglect. The interiors contain a series of unique painted textiles and Mander family portraits and collections. The Manor is surrounded by formal terraced gardens and magnificent yews of the 17th century. Among the ghosts recorded at Owlpen is that of Queen Margaret of Anjou, wife of Henry VI, who stayed at Owlpen in 1471. She is said to keep returning to the house where she spent her last happy night 500 years ago.

Painswick is a pleasant small hilltop town lined with pale grey limestone buildings on the way to Cirencester. The Rococo Gardens is just outside the town and it’s worth a visit.

Cirencester was the second largest town in Britain during the Roman era. We stayed at the Meadow Cottage, a nice family run bed & breakfast in the village of South Cerney. The bedroom has a very comfortable homely feel and the breakfast was so typically English. The Missus was however unnecessarily terrified by the playful and friendly family dog, Basil.
The Corinium Museum is an attraction suitable for history buffs like me where one can experience life as a Roman, marvel at the stunning mosaics, dress as a Roman soldier and explore their engineering and artistry. A history of Cirencester throughout the 18th and 19th century is also depicted here.

A must visit when in the Cotswolds is Bibury, situated on the River Coln 9 miles from the market town of Buford
. The village was described by William Morris (1834-96, artist, writer and poet) as 'the most beautiful village in the Cotswolds'. The main attraction in Bibury is Arlington Row, a group of ancient cottages by the stream with steeply pitched roofs dating back to the 16th Century. There is a trout farm where you can catch your own trout and have fresh trout meals at the restaurant. We did only the latter.
Apparently Bibury provided the backdrop for the film Bridget Jones' Diary; I’ve seen the movie but can’t really pinpoint which scene.

Next is Bourton-on-the-Water, a little town which has been described as the 'Little Venice' of the Cotswolds
. The town has a Model Village – an excellent miniature of Bourton (Burton) using authentic building materials depicting Bourton-on-the-Water as it was in 1937. The town’s layout today hasn’t changed much from how it was 70 years ago! Other attractions include a perfume factory, motor museum and model railway exhibition. A stroll along the clear stream that runs along the town is recommended before proceeding to the any of tea houses for some afternoon tea and scones. Yummy.
A scene from Bond’s Die Another Day was filmed at a car park in Bourton-on-the-Water.

3 days is definitely not enough to explore the Cotswolds.


2 comments:

  1. hey sam....i've been to cotswolds myself....lovely places! this article of yours brings back sweet memories :) owlpen manor?missus must be fond of frommer's huh? love the scones, love the company, sad to end the journey....

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  2. What sweet memories you have....

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